You’re going to drive it without lessons? Is that legal where you live? I’m confused about the question
I was just asking for general tips tbh, I have experience driving and rode a motorcycle for several years, I just never had a manual car before. If that makes more sense?
If you’re used to a motorcycle clutch, you’ll take to a manual car very quickly.
Everything has been said here
I just wanted to say welcome to the club! Driving will be fun again :)
That’s a skill that won’t apply for much longer. If possible, don’t learn.
If you release the clutch slow enough, in most cars you can get moving just with idle engine.
Practice in a parking lot if you can, and just do that over and over until you understand the friction point.
Getting moving from a dead stop in first or reverse is really the only hard part of driving a manual, shifting up through the gears from there is trivial.
Learn to shift based off the sound of the engine, dont stare at the tachometer.
If you already know how to drive, learning manual isnt so hard. You are going to stall it out, you arent hurting anything but your pride when you do.
A point on stalling: don’t panic! You’re gonna stall first in line at the stop light and you’re gonna look in the mirror at that long line of cars behind you, but don’t panic! Take a breath, clutch in and start the engine back up.
We made our kids go to a church parking lot and drive without the gas pedal. There was much bitching and screaming, but they both learned pretty quickly. Backing up through the circle drive without hitting the curb took much much longer.
Learn to shift based off the sound of the engine, don’t stare at the tachometer.
Unless you’re like my grandpa who had his engine replaced at 20k miles because he revved the engine until he could hear it running before putting it into gear. Between quieter modern engines, and his hearing not being as good as it once was, that meant he redlined it in the driveway every time he started the engine.
He only got a couple more years out of the new engine, but that was because he couldn’t turn his head very well either so he didn’t bother looking before changing lanes.
The advice is more meant for changing through gears, not starting from a stop. As mentioned, you don’t really need much gas to get going.
Looking at the tach is so useful through. You can learn how your car can go into gear at different speeds depending on if you’re going uphill, downhill, or flat.
In my experience, releasing the clutch without adding throttle will only get you moving in a diesel car.
Gasoline engines will stall much faster, which is part of the reason learning vehicles are all diesel.
Works I’m my 1L petrol car. You just need to be gentle.
I’ve never driven a car that couldn’t do this, and I’ve driven at least a dozen manual transmission cars and trucks, all gas. Hell my beater right now doesn’t have first gear, and I have no problems starting in second just idling. You just need to be really slow and attentive to your rpms. Not that you should always start rolling like this, but I agree with the comment above that it’s an excellent learning exercise. I always start with this one when I teach other people how to drive stick with great success, and I wish that I started with this exercise when I was learning.
I’m guess that you don’t live in the US? Almost all cars in the US–whether training vehicles or not–are gasoline, and it’s mostly larger pickup trucks that are diesel. VW is one of the few companies that sells consumer cars that are diesel, and I’m not sure that they do anymore, not after there was that huge scandal about intentionally cheating EPA emissions standards with their diesel cars a decade back.
Learn to shift based off the sound of the engine, dont stare at the tachometer.
Do not do this.
Every engine has a different redline. The redline is based mostly on piston mass, which doesn’t necessarily correlate directly to engine displacement, given that it’s common to have 4, 6, or 8 cylinders in a car. If you’re shifting primarily based on engine sound, you can be shifting too low in one car, and then too high in another. The tachometer is a much more reliable way of learning where you should shift in any given vehicle.
Also, constantly running your car in the maximum power band–which tends to be close to the redline–probably isn’t great for it.
I don’t think they were saying you shouldn’t ever look at the tacho, but that you should learn to be able to pick your shift points without having to look at the tacho.
As you say you do want to figure out what revs works best for a particular vehicle (having driven/ridden vehicles with redlines between 2500 and 19000rpm there I can say there is a little bit of variability to be found out there) but it shouldn’t take long to figure out what this sounds and feels like for regular use.
I learned on a 2000 Kia Sephia. Five speed, little four cylinder engine, that shit did not have a tachometer. I had to learn by the sound.
Even when I got into my Vr6 Jetta, or the Nissan spec-v (which had 6 gears) I was able to adjust my driving to the car easily because I first learned with sound. You learn the engine.
Probably try learning using both tbh
Many cars and trucks don’t even have a tach. Older Ford focus’s don’t, they just have a shift light. I used to drive a 70s Ford ranger that had neither. Don’t get me wrong I wish it did, but it’s only a nice-to-have for regular driving. Shifting off sound is fine, but it’s not just sound, it’s the vibrations in your seat, how the engine reacts to gas pedal inputs, etc. I only look at the tach when I need to downshift to pass.
Make sure you press down the clutch all the way
People will be annoyed with you and honk at you when you stall at a traffic light or something. Know and accept that fact. Do not mind them. Take your time to do things right. With time you’ll gain muscle memory and you won’t have to think about it at all. Until then, don’t mind the impatient drivers.
I watched my ex drive a manual for over a year. I intently focused on when he was shifting and what not. When I got the car finally for myself, I just got in and went. I had a friend show me how to reverse in the parking lot. I called my supervisor and told her, “I’m driving the kia in today myself, I might be late” and I took my first ride. Made it to work on time, but stalled everywhere I went for two weeks until I got the hang of it. Took a bit longer to get the hang of downshifting.
Dont panic when you stall! You’re just rebooting, keep going!
Don’t step on the clutch with just your toes or the ball of your foot. Push down with the entire length of your foot. It’s easier to control it that way because you’ll be lifting/depressing the pedal with your knee movement instead of ankle.
Also, don’t ride the clutch, even if you think you’re just resting your foot over it lightly. That still puts pressure on the pedal. Rest your foot on the dead pedal when not shifting.
Don’t rest your hand on the shifter (applies to automatics too).
Use engine braking to your advantage.
To add on, if your left ankle is on the ground when working the clutch you’ll have trouble controlling it.
Like scytale says, use your whole foot so the action is at the knee. This means lifting your ankle up off the floor.
Except one short mention about riding the clutch, I haven’t seen this yet… Get into the habit of completely removing your foot from the clutch pedal whenever possible. Even just lightly resting your foot against the pedal can wear your clutch out prematurely. Cruising on the highway: remove your foot from the clutch pedal and rest it on the floor. Sitting at the lights: put the car in neutral and release the clutch. Put your foot on the floor until you’re ready to go. Also, it’s ok to coast to a stop with the clutch pedal depressed, but you have much more control if you downshift to a stop and you will extend the life of your brakes, too.
I was told off by my driving instructor for putting the car in neutral while sitting at the lights, he said it was due to the risk of being rear-ended and rolling forward into oncoming traffic, this isn’t a problem if you’ve got the handbrake engaged but some driving testers will have a whinge about this apparently. (At least in my area)
It’s a good habit to learn though. Also to add, resting your hand on the gearstick will wear down the transmission in a similar fashion
Your driving instructor was wrong, and not even in the realm of correct. You keep your foot on the break pedal at a light, not put the parking brake up. In no world is sitting a light in neutral with your foot on the brake any more dangerous than Any. Single. Automatic that does the exact same thing if you were to be rear ended, roll forward. Except in this case, with your foot off the brake, the vehicle with an auto is going to roll slightly faster, because it’s having torque applied.
Edit: oh ya, if you’re putting your handbrake up while at a light, it makes you slower to react to changing circumstances. I’ll give a scenario that I saw 3 times today: You’re a new and inexperienced driver and a emergency vehicle comes from around a corner behind you while you’re sitting at a light, and you’re in the outermost lane which currently has the least traffic in it, and you have to move for it to get past. Which outcome seems more likely, A) the new and inexperienced driver smoothly releases the handbrake, applies the clutch and throttle equally while having slidden the shifter expertly into 1st gear, or 2) they shift into 3rd because its probably not the smoothest gearbox for their first manual and then dump the clutch with no throttle, stall, try to fire it up, remember they need to apply the clutch, start it and then stall into 3rd, then same thing after shifting into 1st but the handbrake is still up?
Yeah I don’t disagree with you whatsoever, and the only time I actually use the handbrake in this situation is for one set of lights in my hometown because they take 5 minutes to goddamn change.
I’m more pointing out that driving instructors will have little quirks about things like this so going for a test in a manual can be more of a nightmare, especially now that manual trans is considered a hobbyist/enthusiast thing nowdays.
You wouldn’t just use the foot brake if you’re in neutral?
Apparently it’s because there’s a chance your foot could come off the brake if you’re rear ended so the car has momentum forward and no brake applied.
It’s just a pedantic rule from my neck of the woods and most people would never do it the ‘correct’ way for daily driving, but if you’re going for your licence test the driving instructors might get anal over small things like this.
That’s the same as automatic though. Are you also told you put those in park?
you can’t spend too much time practicing in a big empty parking lot.
Or if you know a farmer, a paddock is also a good option
If you stall and everypne starts getting angry, ignore them and do your thing slowly and safely.
Yup. Once you recover from a stall a few times you can get pretty fast at it, but don’t worry about going slow and methodical.
Safety first!
One I haven’t seen here yet. If your battery dies, you can usually get the car rolling (neutral with people pushing, or turn down a small hill) and once moving a bit you can throw it straight into second gear and hit the gas and it should cause the car to start and you can drive it to a destination to replace the battery (or just let it charge the battery if you left the headlights or interior lights or such on and let it die on accident). No second car/jumper cables required.
The first time I pop started a manual car I felt like a god lmao, it’s an awesome feature
You can get an assist from a speed bump if you time it right. Just as the car apex’s the bump drop it into 2nd and the wee hill can be enough to start the car.
There’s already plenty of good advice here. The one that I think is missing is that the clutch pedal probably has like 10 inches of travel, but it only cares about 1 inch of it. All the rest is just slop. You need to figure out where that zone is, and get good at hitting the start of that spot quickly.
Once you can get to the start of that zone reliably, then you can start working on how fast you release the clutch through that zone. The more power you’re applying with the throttle pedal, the faster you can release the clutch through this zone.
That depends greatly on the age/design of the car/truck. I’ve driven some that barely let you shift with the pedal in the floor, or like my new car, you barely even touch it and the clutch is slipping. My first car was somewhere in the middle; a few inches to fully disengage, with a couple to spare.
As with most things that you have to actually interact with, you have to get a feel for it before you’ll have perfect stop/starts.
Keep the radio/music off. It’s much easier to hear the engine and how the clutch engaged while you are getting used to your new clutch
I find it interesting how those of us having learned with manuals just know when to shift after a while, even if the music is blaring.
You sort of just feel it.You’ll get there soon, OP, just keep practicing!
You literally feel it in the seat of your pants, after a while.
I have 2 cvt scooters (no real defensible reason), and it makes me uncomfortable having RPMs go up or down without direct relationship to speed
Hehe yeah I feel you mate.
I ride motorcycles and struggle getting used to scooters. The almost digital feeling throttle control (on/off, speed will come eventually) is not for me.Enjoy your scooters this summer!
Old VWs just had a mark on the speedo telling you what gear to be in. So you kinda shift around the marker. So easy.
Keep at it.
Nothing really to it, you just need time and lots of practice to build up the “muscle memory” for it, until it becomes little more than a reflex.
practice letting off the clutch by going to an empty parking lot and try to release the clutch in 1st gear without stalling and without gas
then remember that your clutch foot and the gas foot are a 50 / 50 team
so for all the force you put on one, you need to take from the other
dont be afraid to use the parking brake on hills to help you get into 1st when your at a stop
You’ve gotten a lot of solid practical advice, so I’ll take it to theory.
Learn how it works and what happens when you push that clutch in and let it out.
Here’s a video with a lot of detail and animation.
+1. When you know what is going on inside you can get a much better feel for what the car is doing.
When you are cruising along, if you back off the accellerator a bit you can feel the whole drivetrain go ‘loose’ (If you back off a bit more you will start engine braking). This the backlash in the gearbox & you will find you can pop it out of gear without the clutch quite easily. Putting it back in without the clutch is best practiced on an enemies car.When my truck’s clutch cylinder blew, I managed to limp it to the shop just by rev-matching and slipping it into each gear. I couldn’t stop without stalling, so I definitely blew a couple stop signs, but I made it.
