Wait, WTF? Why can they sell that outlet? Got a link to the testing?
e: because basically you’re saying that my 50A breaker isn’t serving a 50A circuit for my dryer and my range. That’s fucked up. I know they don’t draw that much but the safety should be built in.
A 50 amp circuit should only be loaded to 80% of its rated load for continuous use (the NEC defines this as anything longer than 3 hours). So 50X0.8=40A is safe to draw for longer than 3 hours. The 20% buffer is there to account for load increases like the inrush current from a dryer heating element kicking on and off, or the motor starting and stopping.
Any receptacle rated for a 50 Amp circuit will also meet this requirement if installed properly. If you’re doing this shit, but a fucking torque wrench, because this shit does have torque requirements.
Installed properly means that the wire feeding it is sized properly and all connections are torqued to spec.
If listed receptacles weren’t designed for use at their rated amperage, then there’s no point of getting it tested and listed by an independent laboratory, and there would be many more electrical fires in factories than there are.
The problem is that most people will just slap the absolute cheapest shit they can find together however they feel.
Wait, WTF? Why can they sell that outlet? Got a link to the testing?
e: because basically you’re saying that my 50A breaker isn’t serving a 50A circuit for my dryer and my range. That’s fucked up. I know they don’t draw that much but the safety should be built in.
The safety is built in.
A 50 amp circuit should only be loaded to 80% of its rated load for continuous use (the NEC defines this as anything longer than 3 hours). So 50X0.8=40A is safe to draw for longer than 3 hours. The 20% buffer is there to account for load increases like the inrush current from a dryer heating element kicking on and off, or the motor starting and stopping.
Any receptacle rated for a 50 Amp circuit will also meet this requirement if installed properly. If you’re doing this shit, but a fucking torque wrench, because this shit does have torque requirements.
So a Home Depot plug can carry what it says it can and this article has FUD?
If it is UL listed, and installed properly: yes.
Installed properly means that the wire feeding it is sized properly and all connections are torqued to spec.
If listed receptacles weren’t designed for use at their rated amperage, then there’s no point of getting it tested and listed by an independent laboratory, and there would be many more electrical fires in factories than there are.
The problem is that most people will just slap the absolute cheapest shit they can find together however they feel.